18 July 2011

Very VERY Big Cloudbreak

The surf in New Jersey this summer has been consistent – consistently flat… While I have had the opportunity to sit on the beach very often, the surf has just not cooperated. Last weekend I was sitting in my beach chair watching clean little 2-foot barrels peel away in the shore break and wishing I was in it.
Later that afternoon, I was in my grandparent’s shed dropping of some bird seed I had picked up and I found an old bodyboard from back in my pre stand-up days. Then a lightbulb went off. I went out and bought a pair of Churchhill fins started playing around in the shorebreak, trying to fill the void created by the lack of surf this summer.
The reason I bring this up is this… while messing around in the shorebreak, I wiped out a few times. While the waves were pretty small, some of the wipeouts tossed me around and even made me kick the back of my head with my new flippers. This reminded me of a very important lesson – the ocean can kick my ass whenever it wants to.
This is why I am so impressed when I see things like the video below. Not only is this wave HUGE, it’s breaking over razor sharp coral (as opposed to the pretty blunt, NJ sandbars). I couldn’t image wiping out on something like this…

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